By Traveling Light Columnist: Liz Pond
Posted: August 7, 2026
For many of us, our first introduction to the Tasmanian Devil is the Bugs Bunny and Looney Tunes version where the ferocious devil whirls in like a tornado with claws out, a deep, monstrous growl, and a wide-open mouth with razor sharp teeth. In reality, the Tasmanian Devil is actually shy and reclusive around humans, known for flight rather than fight. However, they are highly aggressive with each other, snarling and screeching as they clash over food or a mate. After hearing the Tasmanian devil’s blood-curdling, unearthly scream echoing from the bush at night and seeing their red ears, it is understandable that one can easily believe they have encountered an evil spirit rather than an animal the size of a dog. This has contributed to the Tasmanian Devil’s frightening reputation. (1)
My goal was to find this creature, the world's largest surviving carnivorous marsupial, in as close to its natural environment as possible. (1) I plot out the 8,300 mile journey over three flights and 24 hours to the Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary in Tasmania! I desperately want to see one of these misunderstood creatures in their habitat. Given that they are endangered, nocturnal, and running into one in the wild seemed like a difficult and downright bad idea, I choose to fly to Tasmania. Tasmania has been on my ever-growing bucket list for years, so when I realize I can also meet a devil, there’s no stopping me!
Photo far right: Autumn in Hobart hobartandbeyond.com.au
Hobart, Tasmania is a beautiful surprise in late May! It is a cool, crisp place to explore as Autumn settles over this historic capital city tucked into the bay and nestled between the mountains and the river. Coming from the brown of Arizona, I am always struck by the abundance of green in other places. Hobart’s grassy foliage is enhanced by the contrasting seasonal vibrant orange, mustard yellow, and a cozy rusty red. Hobart’s waterfront downtown is walkable, a breath of fresh air from the crowds of Sydney, Australia. The salty smell of the ocean air and views of the bay with a heavy morning mist are serene and spectacular!
It’s like gazing at a perfect landscape painting with the sun just peeking through the clouds to welcome the day. Scattered rain came and went, cleansing the streets and building the perfect rainbow over the boats in the harbor. Beyond Hobart’s mist, the Tasmanian wilderness is home to some of the world's oldest trees, the ancient Huon Pines. In the early morning I imagine these magnificent patriarchs of the forest waving their strong branches into the whistling wind that mystically transforms into a light whisper sending secret messages through the light fog off Hobart’s bay. I find myself listening, wondering if I can decipher the voices of the wise trees. A squawk from a seagull flying over tears me from my peaceful thoughts bringing me back quickly to the present. A slight drizzle starts again and I walk away from the harbor and back toward town leaving the seagull and his friends to messages in the Scotch mist.
After a good morning walk, the aroma of delicious food and strong coffee lures us into a small hole-in-the-wall cafe called Ed’s. Inside, everyone is seated family style at a giant, slightly cluttered U-shaped island reminiscent of a lived-in and well-loved kitchen with seating for twelve or fourteen if you squeeze. The owner, who is also the chef, stands center stage with island counter space in front of him and a stove top behind him. He skillfully juggles utensils, spices, sauces, and fresh ingredients to create authentic home-made dishes from scratch for what appears to be his extended global family.
Locals mix with tourists and conversation is easy, welcoming and unhurried. Ed’s cafe is a humble place with no flashy signs. Walking by it is easy to miss, but the food and company are unforgettable. It was so good we actually ate there twice! Entering Ed’s cafe is like coming home for a special family meal where you value the flavors and the familiar company. It is cozy dining meets drinks with neighbors. Couples come in out of the cold, as do solo travelers who quickly make new friends. It is the down-under version of the celebrated Cheers Bar in Boston where everybody knows your name. Rather than seeing Norm at the bar with a draft beer, the chef prepares perfectly balanced flavors and pairings with cool climate wines. Breakfast or lunch the aromas draw you into Ed’s like a siren call. Once inside there is that local beer if you want one. This is a must-visit in Hobart! One TripAdvisor review describes Ed’s as “like stepping into a friend's kitchen…for fantastic coffee or a handmade pasta meal.” (2)
Bellies full, we were soon off to the main attraction, the Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary, a short thirty-minute drive from Hobart. This wildlife rescue operates 24 hours a day with over a thousand trained volunteers coordinating the rescue of over 20,000 animals. Through education, their mission is to conserve native species for future generations and inspire direct action to protect animals that call Tasmania home. In addition to Tasmanian Devils, they rescue Kangaroos, Wombats, Echidnas, and so much more. They are a world-renowned wildlife refuge in Brighton, Tasmania, dedicated to the ethical rescue, rehabilitation, and release of animals. (3)
The story goes that owner Greg Iron fell in love with Bonorong at seven years old when he attended a birthday party and told his mum he was going to own the place one day. After volunteering for years and working his way up to park manager, at 25 he realized his dreams and took over from the previous owner. Greg and his wife Mel built this amazing place transforming it into the animal sanctuary it is today. Under Greg and Mel’s leadership Bonorong underwent a significant cultural shift. There was a quick anti-zoo pivot, the addition of the wildlife hospital and the focus on rehabilitation. (3)
Soon the entire world will know about this amazing place because of an eight part TV documentary, The Animal Sanctuary, that will air before the end of the year. The adventures with the Tasmanian Devil and Kangaroos will stream right into your living room for those that choose not to take the 8400 mile trip to this beautiful place at the bottom of the globe. (3) Mr. Irons describes Tassie (Tasmania) as “ The Noah’s Ark of Australian wildlife…the last stand for all these species that used to be on mainland Australia, and now they’re only here. The rate of mammal extinction in Australia is over 20 mammals in the last 200 years, the most of anywhere in the world. Without Tassie that would be higher.” Greg is hopeful the show will help to educate viewers on behaviors that could cause harm to animals and contribute to their extinction. “It is our actions that hurt the animals: it is changing our actions that will help them” he says.
Photo far right: Endangered Tasmanian Devil, Global Times globaltimes.cn
Walking toward the entrance of Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary with youthful zeal, I am clearly more excited than the field trip kids trudging dutifully off the bus! I scan the group and think about Greg’s first trip at seven. I wonder if he looked more excited than this lot. Perhaps you get to see Devils and Kangaroos all the time if you live here. I bobbed and weaved around the kids and was giddy at the thought of seeing the infamous Tasmanian Devil. The thought of experiencing the kangaroos up close also encouraged my childlike glee. I was most definitely more excited than that bunch of kids for the upcoming kangaroo feeding.
After a brief stop to view an exotic birds demonstration and a wombat cuddled in a blanket, we were off to see the devils. With a sudden rush we heard that feral guttural monstrous growl before we saw the little devil. My heart skipped a beat with joy and anticipation! By the sound of it, I expected something large. My cool teenage daughter told me to remove the goofy smile plastered on my face. This was it! We had trekked over 8500 miles, almost two days of travel to peer over the edge of a very high barrier that separated us from the devil. The Tasmanian Devil showed off with more noises that could have come from Bigfoot or a raptor, and were sure to scare off any predator no matter the size. Yet, this creature was much smaller and looked like a cross between a dog and a rat. It was feeding time, and I felt his next deep growl in my bones, immediately grateful that I was not alone with Taz in the bush as his teeth crushed through the skeleton of his prey. As if reading my mind, the little devil showed us his savage bone-crushing chompers with an even more intense snarl, and then he was off to eat.
Meanwhile, when the devil was out of sight, we found our way to the Kangaroo feeding area, which was absolutely amazing! We have seen Kangaroos in the zoo, but you can't get close. In the wild, kangaroos can be very dangerous and pull a serious punch. So the experience of getting cups full of pellets and feeding real kangaroos similar to how we feed baby goats at home was extraordinary! There were at least a hundred free-roaming Eastern Grey, Forester kangaroos on a beautiful and expansive grassy area gently nosing up for food from caring palms. They were incredibly gentle, and comfortable with people, most likely because they were raised by human hands since they were young.
Some kangaroos came to Bonorong disabled, the result of an accident, or no longer have the skills to survive in the wild. They are food motivated and love affection looking for soft chest scratches as a result of constant positive exposure. These beautiful animals are free to interact with human visitors in a controlled environment. Sanctuary entrance fees support the conservation and hospital costs to save more animals.
Feeding the kangaroo at Bonorong was a magnificent experience that we will remember forever. Every so often, when you travel, you have one of those unexpected encounters. This was a pinch-me moment where you are traveling light and free in spirit. These sweet, furry animals hopped about allowing us to be witness to their nuance and interaction. We had a leisurely front-seat to watch various ages and sizes of Kangaroo roaming in the unspoiled natural habitat of Tasmania. There were fences, but this is a huge preserve. We were so close that we heard the occasional kangaroo sniff or soft cluck. These sounds were foreign to me as I never knew the noises made by these spectacular animals. I watch my daughter kneel to feed a new pouched friend. I feel an overwhelming sense of happiness at this shared experience. It was undoubtedly worth circling the globe to be here in this oasis which is part of the rugged biodiverse wilderness of Tasmania.
Those feisty Tasmanian Devils fight a disease that threatens their extinction. And clearly I am head over pouches for the kangaroos that call the wildlife preserve home. I support the great work being done at this special place and hope others find their way to the Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary. If those ancient trees, the Huon Pines could talk, I wonder what stories of animals long gone they could share.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Liz Pond has spent over 25 years leading sales teams across the globe with American Airlines, combining a successful career in travel with a lifelong passion for exploration. Having visited more than 100 countries, she brings a rare blend of industry expertise, cultural insight, and personal curiosity to everything she does. Today, Liz divides her time between global travel and her role as Director of Air, Car, and Rail for a prominent tour operator, where she focuses on creating thoughtful, seamless travel experiences. A strong advocate for accessibility, Liz believes travel should be inclusive and life-enhancing for everyone.
Liz earned her undergraduate degree in Sociology and Urban Planning from UCLA, holds a Master’s degree / MFT from the University of Phoenix, and earned a Global Leadership Professional designation through the Wharton School of Management in partnership with the Darden School of Executive Education at the University of Virginia. Outside of her professional work, Liz is deeply committed to advocacy and service. She serves on the Board of Directors for United Cerebral Palsy of Central Arizona, supporting initiatives that empower individuals with disabilities to achieve their full potential.
PHOTO CREDITS:
Autumn in Hobart hobartandbeyond.com.au
Endangered Tasmanian Devil, Global Times globaltimes.cn
All others courtesy of Liz Pond
RESOURCES:
(1) nre.tas.gov.au/conservation Department of Natural Resources and Environment Tasmania
(2) tripadvisor.com Ed Spuntino Café and Bar
(3) bonorong.com.au Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary
(4) australia.com Travel Guide to Hobart, Tasmania
(5) abc.net.au
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