BY: Liz Pond, our Travelin’ Light columnist
Posted: October 6, 2025
“Our happiest moments as a tourist always seem to come when we stumble upon one thing while in pursuit of something else.” - Lawrence Block
Munich, Germany - You could hear the rhythmic chanting of the cow bells echo off the underpass as the Krampus bounced to ignite the excitement of the growing crowd near the Marienplatz in Munich.
“Krampus is a horned, demon-like creature from Central European folklore who serves as the "bad cop" to St. Nicholas, punishing naughty children during the Christmas season. While St. Nicholas rewards good children, Krampus, with his hooves, horns, and long tongue, uses branches to beat or even abduct naughty children, sometimes taking them to hell. He is a figure with roots in pagan winter traditions, later incorporated into Christian customs as a way to discipline children, and is celebrated through customs like Krampus Runs (Krampuslauf) in the Alpine region.” Google AI
The Krampus run was an hour from start, but the centuries-old monster ritual had already begun to shapeshift into a menacing swarm of boisterous creatures! Before us stood hundreds of Krampus from all over Germany and Austria in various states of dress.
Many adorned with dangerous horns and full head gear, leapt enthusiastically at the innocent spectators, thrashing branches at feet and whacking ankles. Other Krampus were resting lined up, backs to the wall with heavy masks in-hand looking like they did not get much sleep the night before. Once it was the official start of the Krampus Run, these creatures were expected to be fully in character and ready to make the one hundred-plus pounds of gnarly horns and ferocious fur come energetically alive for their onlookers. This demanded strength, balance, stamina and a playful personality. This performative display along the parade route required an obsession with monster folklore and a respectful commitment to local cultural tradition.
The Krampus prepared for their run in a variety of ways. Some of these sturdy looking men were unmistakably fueled by physical fitness making poses similar to the original Brawny Man from the famous paper towel commercials. Besides the strong confident jaw line, their lumberjack strength and resilience would usher them along the streets of Munich. Gleaned from the pungent fumes and a few empty bottles that were almost hidden, other Krampus picked hard alcohol as their fuel of choice. These gruff, sometimes hairy men looked like Hagrid from Harry Potter after an all night bender. Long matted sweaty hair stuck to swollen rosy cheeks framing eyes decorated with dark circles. Once everyone was masked up it was difficult to determine which Krampus was charging the spectators unless you could smell the evidence of the gaseous vapor.
We had come to Munich to see the Christmas Markets and watch the Krampus Run from Sendlinger StraBe to Marienplaz. By a stroke of luck, our journey took a slightly different path, as we had stumbled into an authentic behind the scenes view of parade preparation. We watched as ordinary men transformed into colorful Krampus characters who were appearing more life-like by the minute.
We learned that each regional Krampus club has its own set of rules, some more strict than others. Becoming a Krampus is serious business. The suits are not only heavy, but can cost thousands of dollars and require training to wear. Notably, the Krampus must honor the historical significance of the Krampus Run tradition. Understandably, the locals often feel that respecting the cultural mythology is often lost to a tourists' party atmosphere. This is especially true in smaller more rural locations. (1) Locals in the countryside of Austria openly do not seek out tourism, keep the Krampus celebrations in local language and don't advertise the parade routes. The antipathy toward outsiders was born with increased international exposure, scrutiny and regulation of the Krampus Run’s more violent tendencies. (2)
Perhaps this was why we had a hard time getting details on The Krampus Run from locals. We knew the run was usually the second Sunday in December and had researched the event date in Munich. Yet, our journey to experience Krampus kept stalling. Every time we mentioned the Krampus Run, our excitement was met with a blank stare. When we dared to add more clarifiers, “the monster run” or “Krampus stealing children” they looked at us as if we had lost our minds. Krampus is a rich tradition in Germany and Austria, but folks running the hotel, coffee shop and even the Christmas Market stalls gave us zero indication that our coveted Krampus run existed.This may have been our less than perfect attempt at a German translation, or a way of protecting a cultural tradition from thoughtless tourists. Munich is a large modern city, so it is probably the former, but how we interact with our environment in a country where we are a guest is an important conversation.
As tourists we do have a responsibility to be thoughtful throughout our travel journey and to respect local customs. Similar to when we are a guest in someone’s home, we want to be considerate of house rules so we are invited back. Before embarking on this Krampus adventure we learned that people from Austria and Germany welcome the Krampus with enthusiasm and sometimes with schnapps. Although we did not go as far as offering Krampus Schnapps, we showed excitement for the spirit of the traditional event.(4) We understood that the Krampus is part of an elite bunch and a chance to interact and talk with them before showtime was a privilege. Our commitment to learn as much as possible about the Krampus Run Tradition paid off because it landed us in the right place at the right time. In years past the Krampus Run started adjacent to the Marienplatz and ended with Krampus startling market goers in the Marienplatz on their way out of town. Electing to try a similar adjacent path, we were unexpectedly delivered center stage into what is best described as a Munich Monster pageant of the masters.
When we drove up to what was our best guess at the right spot for the event start we toppled out of the Uber with a kiddish frenzy at the sound of the bells and sight of wild feral fur. I actually climbed over my travel companion in a childish mania sprinting from the vehicle into the crowd that was just forming around the Krampus! For me this was like Christmas morning. I wanted to see this Krampus the way a child wants to see Santa on Christmas Eve. This odd bucket list item of mine was about to come to fruition. I was not sure if this would be my only moment with the mysterious monster so I was taking no chances. I soon learned we had landed the jackpot of spectator spots.
We could see at least twenty clubs gearing up for the parade from our front row location just behind the barricade. We had been dropped off at the perfect time to secure a spot on the barrier that separated humans from monsters. We had no idea these mythical creatures would converge on the underpass for the official start of the Krampus Run! To our surprise this backstage glimpse into the Krampus was the highlight of our trip because we were able to chat with the Krampus pre parade! We were so close to the half costumed monsters that they could reach out and tousle our hair. We learned quickly that the Krampus have a special fixation to long locks as our heads were playfully ruffled by spiky monster finger nails. Turns out, the Krampus enjoy mussing or lightly pulling hair, especially when a woman is unsuspecting! (2)
My heart beat faster as the devilish character standing almost eight feet tall came charging toward me. I laughed nervously which seemed to further excite the demonic creature who grabbed my head giving me the equivalent of a grown up noogie. Hair standing on end from the assault I looked up just in time to see the birch branches carried by a second Krampus whack my jean covered leg leaving a slight sting. The consequence of my childish enthusiasm and blood curdling screams turned out to be more attention from the monsters. It was difficult to avoid eye contact, but direct eye contact could signal him to punish or abduct you, so when possible best to keep your eyes away from the beast. (5) Clearly, the front was not the place to stand unless you were interested in closely interacting with a Krampus. We were all in, soaking up the full Krampus experience!
Bells the size of melons shook and ricocheted off the passageway to the Marienplatz leaving a ringing in our ears. These 45 pound bells called Krampusglocken or Balkenglocke are strapped around the Krampus waist making a thunderous boom as the men march together, smacking the bells with their thighs. Bells signal Klagenfurt’s emphasis on Krampus as an Alpine tradition rather than a rowdy, drunken terror. Bells warn that the creature is on his way, like the inverse of Jingle bells.(2) The animal pelts and fur brushed against us as there was a constant animation back and forth with the growing crowd. From our front row seat we saw horned masks be taken off and put back on as troupe members waved at family and friends or just decided it was time for a needed sweat brake before the main attraction. It was cold outside, but the masks and suits were hot even without all the shaking and stomping. Beads of perspiration collected around faintly lined eyes and hairlines eventually spilling down cheeks and necks. Meanwhile we are in full coats with gloves and scarf.
The barricade was eventually moved back to allow for the official start of Krampuslauf, or Krampus Run. This colorful procession of monster and man was led by Saint Nicholas. Krampus dates back centuries and now works in conjunction with Saint Nicholas, who leaves gifts in the stockings and shoes of good children on December 6. Naughty kiddos may not make it to December 6, because Krampus usually comes on December 5. As the story goes, Krampus beats bad children with birch sticks and carries away the worst offenders in woven baskets. (2)
Krampus is a real nightmare and an ode to a previous parenting style that lacked today's sensitivities. Much like the original gruesome fairy tales of the Brothers Grimm, the Krampus stories demanded good behavior for children. One slip up could bring out the Krampus and a huge, grotesque figure to hunt the child down. In modern day, the Krampus would leave a trail of PTSD (Post Traumatic Stress Disorder) in his wake of misbehaving minors. Bottom line, the kiddo’s were scared into doing what their parents requested because the Krampus always knew when a child was naughty. Think Elf on a Shelf, but much bigger with sharp antlers, a devilish grin and animal skin. The Krampus, like the Elf on the Shelf, watch those youngsters at home and school. The Elf reports into Santa, where the Krampus divides the children between himself and Saint Nicholas.
According to a new English-language history of Krampus, Alpine Perchten or spirits were targeted by anti witchcraft efforts during the Dark Ages. This makes the Krampus' survival noteworthy in that he outlasted most of his pagan peers. Most likely this is because he was adapted to work alongside good old St, Nick in the 1600’s This becomes an example of pagan and Christian syncretism in Europe, It’s difficult to understand one half without the other. (2)
“The name Krampus is derived from the German word Krampen, meaning claw. No surprise in the 12th century the Catholic church tried to ban Krampus celebrations. Krampus evolved into a child terrorizing ghoul that came out before Christmas. Well before an official Krampus Run in Alpine territory, men ran through streets in costume frightening children and even poking them with a stick.(6) Thank goodness the children are no longer terrorized in modern day celebrations. Still you may think twice before having them watch from the front row.
The modern day Krampus Run, seemed more of a monster swagger, as they lugged those heavy costumes out into the crowds. They were traveling light in spirit but heavy in earthly weight. The only running I saw was when a Krampus made a dramatic beeline for a spectator wielding a birch branch. Most monsters stopped at a gentle thwack, but one devilish creature did leave a colorful blue and purple bruise on my calf. Each charge was followed by cheers of excitement and terror from locals and tourists. Although being whacked is common for teens and adults, the modern day Krampus is gentle with the smaller children. (2) More smiles and giggles than shrieks. Today’s Krampus are scary, and they grab children from the crowd, but no one is taken away in a basket. Our Krampus Run was generally good natured.
A smiling young couple next to us handed their brand new baby to one of the horned creatures who carefully posed for pictures with the child. Then the Krampus pretended to run away with the baby to showcase the folklore of bad children being taken away in woven baskets.. The baby continued to smile even though he was staring into the eyes of what looked like a demon.The Krampus ever so gently held the baby up in the air and finally returned him safely to his cheering parents. The child showed a little uneasiness with the roar of the crowd, but the interaction between monster and baby was reminiscent of the tenderness between beauty and the beast.
There were many colorful creatures stomping, running and rolling through the Krampus parade route. Alpine Perchten figures, the Goddess Perchta and endless varieties of Krampus stalked spectators. Red faced devils, horned furry creatures and taller, wider monsters that resemble characters from “Where the wild things are” mesmerized bystanders. We noticed most Krampus we saw without a mask before the run were male. Although this is slowly changing, women typically do not perform the part of a Krampus. Select troops allow it, however more often women will personify Frau Perchta, the witch leader of all wintertime spirits.(2) Over the two hour procession we saw a few Krampusi fall over with the weight of the bells in turtle fashion needing the trusted hands of a few Krampus cohorts to get them back up again. We suspected adult beverages may have added to what we nicknamed the Krampus roll. We all clapped and cheered when they returned upright like one does for an athlete that stands up and walks off the field after a potential injury.
After an amazing hour watching the Krampus in their natural habitat getting ready for the run, we experienced another full two hours of Krampus characters making their way up and down the parade route. By the time the monster started to scatter through the Marienplatz running amuck, the adrenalin from our journey was wearing off and we were cold. I removed my glove so much for the perfect picture that my fingers felt like ice.
The crowds were intense leaving us elbow to elbow, snaking our way past the famous Glockenspiel on a mission to get hot coffee. I couldn’t see anything over the crowds and held tight to the jacket of my travel companion so as not to be separated in the surge of people from around the world squeezing through the Marienplatz. I was fiercely aware that if we had not won the lottery with our front row view of the race, this may have been my experience for the full three hours of the Krampus Run. I heard carolers, but couldn’t see them over the crowd. I saw glimpses of the Chriskindlmark between swarms of people and smelled the aromatic gingerbread and hot spiced wine.
Then I recognize the familiar clanging sound of the Krampus bell. I knew the Krampus were among us again. I could only see the person in front of me, but I could hear screams and laughter. Lonely Planet describes this well. “Suddenly, a cacophony of clanking overpowers the holiday tunes. Heads turn and people point, and I feel a heavy hand ruffle my hair. Turning around I’m face to face with a grotesque creature with a forked tongue sticking out of a fanged mouth and curling rams horns jutting from his demonic forehead” (3) The Krampus found a few new victims in the Marienplatz before heading out of town until their reliable journey back next year.
We had literally stumbled into our journey to find the Alpine Krampus. The experience was the perfect combination of thrilling surprise, cultural tradition, and playful safe celebration. A little history, a lot of respect, a dash of magic, and a strong dose of imagination make the Krampus Run an event to be experienced by all ages! The Krampus Run is a glorious Halloween meets Christmas where scary costumes mix with gift giving and Saint Nicholas. Unless of course you were naughty this year. In that case, you may hear the haunting bells warning that the Krampus is coming for you so beware!
Today’s Travelin’ Light Highlight: Tread lightly when participating in another country’s cultural traditions. Showing respect for locals and what's important to them paves the way for responsible tourism. When we travel we are guests in another country. The ASU OLLI tours do a wonderful job of educating long before we set foot in a new place so we are prepared and able to get the most out of every travel experience.
Thank you for joining me on this Alpine Krampus Journey!
ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Liz Pond spent over 25 years leading teams around the globe in the travel industry flying for both work and personal fulfillment. During her Sales and Marketing Career at American Airlines, it was common for her to head out on the road internationally with less than 24 hours notice. Liz divides her time between world exploration and accessibility advocacy. Liz believes we have the opportunity to enhance lives through positive accessible travel experiences.
PHOTO CREDITS:
- German American Heritage Museum gahmusa.org
- All others, courtesy of Liz Pond
REFERENCES:
- moonhoneytravel.com, Sabrina Brett 1/2/2025
- atlasobscura.com
- lonleyplanet.com, Steve Larese, Everything you need to know about Krampus and where to find him.
- drewchialauthor.com
- Survivingeurope.com, Christmas in Austria:The return of Krampus
- nationaldaycalendar.com, Top 5 ways to Krampus Proof your home.
- ourquadcities.com
WE WELCOME YOUR FEEDBACK!
Please send your questions or comments on this article or the blog in general to: asuolliblog@gmail.com
